Nowadays in the music industry, electric guitars play a giant role. A guitar amplifier is an electronic circuit that is usually housed in a wooden cabinet to strengthen the weak electrical signal from an electric or bass guitar to produce sound through one or more loudspeakers. A guitar amp has a very limited frequency range. The frequency range of a speaker system tells what it can handle. For example, a bass guitar amp can produce very low frequencies, while they do a poor job at higher frequencies.
A guitar amp can play some low frequencies and some high frequencies, but they mainly focus on mid-range frequencies that make sense for guitars. It has a power amplifier and Preamplifier circuits. They are available in different sizes and power ratings, ranging from small, lightweight practical amplifiers to heavy, powerful amplifiers. In this project, a simple guitar amplifier circuit is built that uses minimum components to get 1.5-watt output amplified signal.
This is a simple and portable guitar amplifier circuit that uses the TDA7052 amplifier IC as the main component with a few other components to build a 1.5Watt amplifier. This simple amplifier circuit uses a 9V battery.
Let's Build A Simple Pedal
The signal from the guitar is fed into the TDA7052 amplifier IC through a 10µF capacitor to reduce noise and high frequency. A 22K resistor is used to adjust input impedance. A Capacitor of 22µF and 100nF at the output is used for filtering and smoothing the amplified output. The circuit uses an 8-ohm speaker for the output.
2n3904 555 timer Adjustable Regulator arduino arduino uno audio amplifier battery charger bc547 bridge rectifier cd4017 cmos counter darlington transisor EEPROM EPROM Fast Recovery Diode fm transmitter high voltage jfet ldo LDR LED led flasher light lm317 lm358 lm741 N Channel MOSFET NE555 npn transistor operational amplifier pcb pnp transistor power amplifier power MOSFET power supply power transistor printed circuit board relay switch temperature sensor triac Ultrafast Diode voltage regulator zener diodeThe inspiration for this project was actually two-fold. First, I needed to make a simple, portable guitar amp that would work with an electric bass guitar as well as an acoustic six-string (with a pickup), and could be played through a speaker or headphones. I knew I had all the components needed for a basic LM386 audio amplifier, but the second part of the inspiration didn't hit me until I was looking for an enclosure for the project. I had a few empty Eclipse gum bottles laying around, and upon quick inspection, I realized that the opening at the top was 2¼ (60mm) - exactly the size used by many standard PCs for the internal speaker. The goal from then on was simple - make the entire 1-chip amp fit into the container underneath the speaker, with the lid threaded on over the speaker to hold it in place.
I'm assuming for this project that the builder has some basic electronics experience such as breadboarding simple circuits, wiring and soldering. Tools needed for the electronics assembly are the usual hand tools - wire cutters, needlenose pliers, a low-wattage soldering iron and some rosin-core solder. A helping-hands vise setup would be great if you have one. Not a lot of mechanical skill needed here, just some drilling and light finishing which we'll get to in Step 5. A power drill and a few smaller bits (up to about ¼) will be needed, and if you've never used one before, a tapered reamer is the perfect tool for getting all the jacks and switches to fit perfectly through the sides of the plastic container.
Simple Two Channel Amplifier For Microphone And Guitars
The components required are included in Step 1. You may have a few of them lying around, but even if not the whole list could be purchased for under $10.
For SP1, you just need a simple 8Ω speaker - around ½ watt, and exactly 2¼ (60mm) in diameter. I found several of these in my parts box that were pulled from old PC's so it seemed to be a standard size for that application. If you don't have one handy, here are a few places to find them:
For SW1, this type of switch can be easily found. You want to find a mini or sub-mini sized switch with solder lug (not PC-mount) terminals. Here are a few places I found a suitable model where I typically look for parts:
W Guitar Amplifier Circuit Diagram With Pcb Layout
The rest of the components should be pretty easy to find wherever you usually buy parts, but here are some links to Futurlec:
My personal recommendation would be to bundle all the parts you can from Futurlec. It takes a few extra days to ship (from Thailand) but the prices are unbeatable. Their electrolytic capacitor pack (#ELEPACK) includes 100 pieces for $3.95. I can't say for sure what values are included in every pack, but the four values needed for this circuit were included when I bought one. They also have a 300 piece resistor pack too (#RES14WPACK) for $2.95, which makes them less than a penny each. Probably don't need that for this project, but it's a good way to re-stock your parts bins.
At the heart of course is the LM386 amplifier, which delivers decent sound with just a few external components. I used the N-1 version of the chip. This amp delivers 250-325mW of output power, which is plenty for this application. (You could drop in an N-3 or N-4 version pin-for-pin to get either 700mW or a full watt of output power, but you'll need a speaker rated for the additional power - and I would not recommend using the amp for headphone output).
Microphone Circuit Diagram For Amplifier
The circuit is designed to deliver the input signal from the guitar via J1 through capacitor C1 into the LM386's non-inverting input at pin 3. The inverting input at pin 2 is connected to ground along with the chip's ground pin 4. The audio output is delivered through capacitor C3 into DPDT switch SW1 which simply directs the amplified audio signal to either speaker SP1 or the headphones connected to J2. The other pole of SW1 acts as a power switch to the circuit, connecting the positive lead from 9V battery B1 to the chip's voltage source pin 6 as well as to the LED power indicator D1 through current-limiting resistor R1. Filtering capacitor C2 sits across the power supply rails. Finally, the RC series circuit of capacitor C4 and potentiometer R2 provides variable gain control for the amp. I found that with these values, I could get an output range from a really clean output into the headphones all the way up to a nice distorted overdrive into the speaker. If you need to experiment with any component values with your particular instruments, those will be the ones. I found with the guitars I worked with that it took a combination of guitar volume knobs and the amplifier's gain knob (R2) to get the right sound level, especially for comfortable headphone listening.
You'll need to solder some leads onto the off-board components (J1 and J2, D1, R2, SP1 and SW1) in order to bring them into the breadboard (if you do Step 3), and you'll be able to use the same leads when you build the permanent circuit onto a perfboard. I strongly recommend using small-gauge stranded hookup wire, as it will be a lot more flexible when stuffing everything into the plastic enclosure. In my first prototype I used solid hookup wire on SW1 (since it already had leads soldered to it from some other project) but it made getting things into the enclosure a real pain - some leads even broke off and had to be resoldered.
Make sure to leave a good length of wire on SP1 since it will need to move out of the way in the finished project in order to change the battery. In my circuit (as you can see below), I actually kept the two-pin female header that was already connected to the old PC speaker I used, and then connected it to the circuit with two breadboard jumper wires. Pay special attention to SW1 - you'll actually connect both terminals of the power switching pole together so that the circuit is energized whether you are connecting the speaker or the headphone jack. Also note that for J2 you'll need to solder the two stereo terminals together, otherwise you'll only be able to hear the amp in one ear. Finally, make sure to solder your two leads onto the center and right terminals of potentiometer R2, to make sure the gain increases with a clockwise turn. See the detailed pictures below.
Single Ended Guitar Amplifier With Dynamic Load
I have found that even for a familiar circuit, breadboarding it first is always well worth the time. It gives you the opportunity to test everything end-to-end and then easily swap out some component values to tweak things as needed. This is where some of those happy accidents happen that you sometimes miss when you reach for the soldering iron right away. In this step I'll introduce the components and the schematic and then map out the breadboard version of
The rest of the components should be pretty easy to find wherever you usually buy parts, but here are some links to Futurlec:
My personal recommendation would be to bundle all the parts you can from Futurlec. It takes a few extra days to ship (from Thailand) but the prices are unbeatable. Their electrolytic capacitor pack (#ELEPACK) includes 100 pieces for $3.95. I can't say for sure what values are included in every pack, but the four values needed for this circuit were included when I bought one. They also have a 300 piece resistor pack too (#RES14WPACK) for $2.95, which makes them less than a penny each. Probably don't need that for this project, but it's a good way to re-stock your parts bins.
At the heart of course is the LM386 amplifier, which delivers decent sound with just a few external components. I used the N-1 version of the chip. This amp delivers 250-325mW of output power, which is plenty for this application. (You could drop in an N-3 or N-4 version pin-for-pin to get either 700mW or a full watt of output power, but you'll need a speaker rated for the additional power - and I would not recommend using the amp for headphone output).
Microphone Circuit Diagram For Amplifier
The circuit is designed to deliver the input signal from the guitar via J1 through capacitor C1 into the LM386's non-inverting input at pin 3. The inverting input at pin 2 is connected to ground along with the chip's ground pin 4. The audio output is delivered through capacitor C3 into DPDT switch SW1 which simply directs the amplified audio signal to either speaker SP1 or the headphones connected to J2. The other pole of SW1 acts as a power switch to the circuit, connecting the positive lead from 9V battery B1 to the chip's voltage source pin 6 as well as to the LED power indicator D1 through current-limiting resistor R1. Filtering capacitor C2 sits across the power supply rails. Finally, the RC series circuit of capacitor C4 and potentiometer R2 provides variable gain control for the amp. I found that with these values, I could get an output range from a really clean output into the headphones all the way up to a nice distorted overdrive into the speaker. If you need to experiment with any component values with your particular instruments, those will be the ones. I found with the guitars I worked with that it took a combination of guitar volume knobs and the amplifier's gain knob (R2) to get the right sound level, especially for comfortable headphone listening.
You'll need to solder some leads onto the off-board components (J1 and J2, D1, R2, SP1 and SW1) in order to bring them into the breadboard (if you do Step 3), and you'll be able to use the same leads when you build the permanent circuit onto a perfboard. I strongly recommend using small-gauge stranded hookup wire, as it will be a lot more flexible when stuffing everything into the plastic enclosure. In my first prototype I used solid hookup wire on SW1 (since it already had leads soldered to it from some other project) but it made getting things into the enclosure a real pain - some leads even broke off and had to be resoldered.
Make sure to leave a good length of wire on SP1 since it will need to move out of the way in the finished project in order to change the battery. In my circuit (as you can see below), I actually kept the two-pin female header that was already connected to the old PC speaker I used, and then connected it to the circuit with two breadboard jumper wires. Pay special attention to SW1 - you'll actually connect both terminals of the power switching pole together so that the circuit is energized whether you are connecting the speaker or the headphone jack. Also note that for J2 you'll need to solder the two stereo terminals together, otherwise you'll only be able to hear the amp in one ear. Finally, make sure to solder your two leads onto the center and right terminals of potentiometer R2, to make sure the gain increases with a clockwise turn. See the detailed pictures below.
Single Ended Guitar Amplifier With Dynamic Load
I have found that even for a familiar circuit, breadboarding it first is always well worth the time. It gives you the opportunity to test everything end-to-end and then easily swap out some component values to tweak things as needed. This is where some of those happy accidents happen that you sometimes miss when you reach for the soldering iron right away. In this step I'll introduce the components and the schematic and then map out the breadboard version of
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