About: I like to design and build things. Skateboards, Furniture, Camera rigs and everything in between. I'm into photography and filmography, longboarding and music. More About fehlbergo »
I call this the Versatile mount because... well... its probably the most versatile removable mount i have for my GoPro camera. The idea for this mount came from the fact that i wanted to mount my camera onto my bike in many different places. To do this i would usually need to buy a handle bar/seat post mount for small tubular sections of my bike frame and a roll bar mount for larger sections. This would cost $50 plus shipping to AUS!!! So i thought there had to be a cheaper and better way to make a mount that would allow me to attach my camera to almost any kind of tube or bar no matter what size or shape.
I came up with the simple solution of using a hose clamp as the fixing device as this would allow the mount to conform to any shape or profile tube/bar while still applying adequate force. To accommodate for larger or smaller diameters of tube all you need to do is get a larger or smaller hose clamp!
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It cost me only $3 to make this but i bought the surf expansion pack ages ago for $20. So i suppose it's really $23.
This instructable is really only for Go Pro camera's but im sure you could use the principal of this design for any camera mount.
2. Hose clamp - Any size you need but i use a 22-35mm with a key tightener and a 35-55mm with a phillips head.
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2. Chain drill 3-4 holes through the mount flush with the base about the same width as the largest hose clamp you have.
To give the mount some vibration resistance and grip i decided to add a bit of rubber from a bike inner tube.
2. Glue the dampener onto the base of the mount - i used a hot glue gun for speed but super glue would also workGoPro videos get terribly boring when shot from one perspective only. When I decided to tackle my first two day mountain bike race, over what promised to be interesting terrain, I knew that I wanted to try and document it. Unfortunately, none of the official GoPro mounts are suitable for adjusting during a race. Without multiple cameras you are stuck with one boring shot for the whole race.
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Maker of 3mm Holes (I used a Dremel with a 3mm bit, but Electric Drill/Hand Drill/Laser Vision will work just as well)
If you are using a small clamp, make sure to choose a position where the bottom of the mounting arm won't protrude into the jaws of the clamp.
Most clamps have a useful line down the centre from the moulding process. In order to place the slots accurately, measure from the centre line to the centre of the slots. This means, the centre of your slots needs to be (Gap Between Legs)/2 + (Width of Legs)/2 = 3.25mm away from the centre line.
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Measure 3.25mm from the centre line in a few points with a vernier and make marks in the plastic with the tip of your blade or a pin. You should end up with two parallel rows of marks, 6.5mm apart.
Draw all over the edges of the GoPro arm's legs with a felt-tip pen or highlighter, then roll the legs on some paper to get a trace.
Cut this paper out and stick it to the clamp with a bit of clear tape, then poke through the paper along the edges of your traces with a pin or blade to make marks.
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I find it helpful to start the hole by making a pilot-hole with the tip of a knife or a pin, this stops the drill from skipping around one the plastic. You should already have these notches from the measuring step, but it helps to make them a bit deeper.
Use a drill to make a series of holes that you will later join to make a slot. Make sure you use a bit that is a little smaller than you need (3mm), not bigger.
Once you have all your holes, join them to form a continuous slot. The plastic tends to be quite soft, so use whatever you have, I used a drill for most of it and a scalpel for the touch up. Keep testing with the GoPro mount to see how it fits. The goal is a tight fit, so don't take too much away at once.
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Measure the distance between the centres of the two holes on the GoPro mount (On this short one it is 20mm), then insert the mount and measure that distance down from the first hole and make a mark for drilling.
First remove the GoPro arm and then drill where you made the mark. I used a 3mm bit and wiggled it around a bit to make the hole almost as big as the M5 bolt. Leaving the hole slightly smaller means that the bolt will bite into the plastic when you screw it in.
When tightening the bolt through the plastic, you will feel some resistance, but make sure that your bolt is going cleanly through the hole in the mounting arm. If you are unwittingly tightening the bolt against the side of the arm you could bend and break it.
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If your bolt is too long, trim it down with a Dremel cutting disc or a hacksaw, you really don't want a sharp protrusion on your handle bars.
If your slots are tight enough there should be no movement, but if there is any vibration it can easily be solved by filling the gaps with epoxy. Of course once you have done this you won't be getting that arm out again.
I was extremely happy with my results. The mounting is probably not suited for something like downhill mountain biking, since it can vibrate a bit with big hits, but one doesn't have much time to move the mount around in downhill anyway.
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For marathon or cross country type events, the mount works very well and is surprisingly stable. The ability to move the camera position in seconds during a ride makes for far more interesting videos.
I have attached pictures of some of the mounting positions that I found worked well as well as some screengrabs from the race footage.
The video below is the one that I took on my race, although it is a bit long I think it is infinitely more watchable than if it was the same length taken from one static mount.
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