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I bought a used Fender Mexican strat online many months ago. Its bridge came lifted. I read some threads here (I'm posting them below) that say this can lead to intonation problems, and indeed I've never been able to get all strings in tune (the upper string is always at a higher pitch than the strings below, so if e.g. E and A are in tune, A can't be in tune with D).
I'd very much like to leave the bridge tilted like this, so I could pull or push it with my hand (like Jeff Beck does), but I'm afraid of breaking the bridge.
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I don't know what's the gauge of the strings because I haven't changed them, but to me they feel like regular 10 gauge.
Several things. First is that the arm is a lever. A lever gives more leverage. So using our hand instead will produce less leverage, so less chance of breakage.
Second is with the bridge like that, there's lots of movement to raise the strings' pitch, but little to drop it. The bridge needs to be able to move both ways, so tighten the screws underneath until you have the balance you want. Three springs is o.k., but why not put them all parallel.
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Third is there will be room to sort out intonation, which at the moment, looking at the saddles, isn't right anyhow. The tiny springs are only there to take up slack and stop rattles, if needed, they can be made shorter.
To get the Jeff Beck floating bridge thing, you need to be able to go both up and down, and I think you've used up all the down. Here's Carl Verheyen explaining how to set up a Strat so it floats, which should guide you.
I would tighten the claw and retune to balance. That should make it behave more nicely and allow intonation. Best of luck.
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By clicking “Accept all cookies”, you agree Stack Exchange can store cookies on your device and disclose information in accordance with our Cookie Policy.From what I can see, the bridge height has caused the two e strings to touch the back of the bridge behind the saddles, creating new (very slight) break angles. Also, the low E string is touching the screwhead of the tailpiece at the ball end if that matters.
Without a shim, I get buzzing from the saddles where there isn't enough downward force. I guess I could try a 0.25 degree one.
Your bridge height looks reasonable. But it obviously doesn't work for you. Strings shouldn't touch the bridge plate back edge. Your action is quite low, so your only way to go would be up, but raising the bridge to increase action would also increase string break angle, making contact more rather than less likely.
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With the traditional vintage-style bridge, it's often a bit of dance to get the height adjustment on bridge and saddles right for string clearance. With the Mustang-style Staytrem, you don't have the option to play with saddle height. So the string clearance over the back edge of the bridge plate is all down to the bridge height and intonation position of the saddles (assuming traditional trem position).
So in essence you are seemingly in a 'blind spot' for a Mustang-style bridge. Where the available adjustments can't obviously get you out of trouble.
I think your options are indeed the smaller 0.25 deg shim to lower the bridge a tad, and the string break angle with it. Or trying to go back to the stock traditional-style bridge, to give you control over saddle height to get more clearance. Or Warmoth sells the Modified Mustang bridge with height-adjustable saddles. Fender makes something similar but with smaller barrels - basically the traditional bridge with smooth barrels and height adjustment.
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As usual, it is important to check the nut for binding, in case that's contributing to your tuning issues. And ensuring that your trem screw compression is set to approx neutral. And never lubricate the string-saddle contacts on a rocking bridge.
I just knew I wanted to make a sound that was the complete opposite of a Les Paul, and that’s pretty much a Jaguar. Rowland S. Howard.
I have a Staytrem on my Jaguar. I just checked and the strings all clear the back of the bridge: I know it's a different guitar, but same trem and same bridge as yours. I don't know why you need a shim at all though? I don't have one on mine and can get the action set nicely (similar readings to yours). I'd try taking the shim out, set the action again and see how it goes.
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Also I'd second the comment above that it's likely to be the nut: Mine was a bit rough and not cut properly/deep enough, but it's a standard procedure I make on any 'new' guitar to me: I cut them a bit deeper, sanded the top of it (so the strings aren't buried in the slots, which also causes tuning issues, especially with the trem/big bends), no problems with tuning at all now and not any need for 'nut sauce' or the like.
Ahh Jazzmasters… you got to love the setup process in order to play them. My Staytrem isn’t that high with a 0, 5 shim but this is a Vintera. Your bridge is high but that is good since your breakangle is larger and that gives better tone. Timtam pretty much sums it up here. You can gently file the backside of the staytrem perhaps… anyway the large three screws on the tremolo can be put in from the back side. That way the strings will not touch the screws.
Simple answer, you’re shim is too high. Get a 0.25 shim to replace your 0.5 shim. £15 on eBay for a Stew Mac full pocket shim and the job is done. Simple.
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Also, check your vibrato is adjusted right. If you can engage the lock ok but cannot pull up 1mm then you’re good to go.
I own a '66 Jaguar. That's the guitar I polish, and baby - I refuse to let anyone touch it when I jump into the crowd. - Kurt Cobain
Its on the high end. I mean without individual height adjust maybe we can say its too high when the string tough the back??
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Plus it could be tilted forward (or just photo angle?) Which prevents the proper rocking with the trem so may cause tuning issues, and the strings on the back.
IMO 6 thousandths is not enough relief. I'd say loosen the truss rod a quarter turn - I usually shoot for .010 or .015 at the 7th.
Edit: The outer strings going flat is def because of those screws though. You need to get the strings off of them. Sometimes it isn't possible within the bounds of a normal setup - in which case I'd recommend flipping those two screws or installing smaller headed ones to get them out of the way.
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I would also suggest/agree that your action is quite low. I usually shoot for 5/64 on the bass side and 4/64 on the treble side or so.
In my opinion that's pretty high bridge height for a Staytrem on a JM, OP. It's not crazy or anything, but the fact that it's sitting where it is and your action is still that low suggests that the guitar has some angle built into the neck pocket even without the shim. I don't have a Vintera but Fender seems to be doing this as standard practice for offsets in the last several years. My AV65 is the same way.
Its on the high end. I mean without individual height adjust maybe we can say its too high when the string tough the back?? And action is very low. Plus it could be tilted forward (or just photo angle?) Which prevents the proper rocking with the trem so may cause tuning issues, and the strings on the back. High bridge ime tend to be more likely to end up uncentred sometimes. I agree. Staytrems like to be a little low because of that back lip. I had this tuning issue, along with the E strings contacting the bridge lip and the trem screws. I ended up reverse-shimming the neck to get some of that angle out and flipping the 2 outside screws on the trem.
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You asked if that trem screw contact matters; it affects your tuning stability and if you use the trem enough you will saw through the strings (at least the high E).
You could try going to the smaller shim to get those strings clear of the bridge. If it doesn't work, or if you like more bridge height, try going without the shim and raising the Staytrem up a little. It's a bit of trial and error with each instrument, as well as how you play, personal preference, etc.
I did misread 12th fret action though as its usually at the 17th fret so
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